Appalachian Trail SOBO day 12 – Real food in Stratton Maine

7th August 2023
Bigelow Col Campsite (180.4) - Route 27 / Stratton (188.4)
Daily miles: 8
Total miles: 193.7

a durston tent pitched in the forest — A new (to me) popular brand on trail – Durston

Cal and I had decided on a short day to go to town. I needed to go to town anyway to resupply, and Cal needed to go to town because he had a interview lined up for tomorrow which he needed WiFi for.

I didn’t need to stay in town, I could have stayed for a couple of hours and hiked out, but there was rain in the forecast and I didn’t want to camp in the rain!

I put new socks on. Not just clean dry socks but box fresh socks… what a treat!

We heard all the boys go past around 5am and we got up and I started hiking around 6:30am. I left before Cal so I had a chance of making it to the top of the next climb before he flew past me.

It was only a short, but steep, ascent to Bigelow West Peak and it was so beautiful and peaceful up there. A little misty and that may be a mix of natural morning mist and some smoke from the Canadian wildfires.

a view over a lake partly obscured by smoke from the canadian wildfires — Canadian wildfire smoke

The boys were just descending having gone up to watch the sunrise which must have been nice, if only I’d had the will power to get out my sleeping bag earlier!

Cal arrived and we hiked the rest of the way together which was really nice, nice to chat and get to know him a bit more. Plus it made the time go more quickly and as we were both getting really hungry, so it slightly distracted us from our hunger.

a long shadow of a person on the summit of west peak — A peaceful morning

Appalachian trail Bigelow west peak trail sign nailed to a tree — Bigelow Mountain West Peak

a hiker stood in the sun at the top of bigelow mountain — Loving life

a hiker stood on a rock in the distance on Bigelow west peak appalachian trail — A moment of stillness

views across the baldpates ridgeline — Epic views

We had one more climb up to South Horn where we stopped for a while to chat with the boys. And then it was down down down (with a tiny bit of up) from there.

The trail is much like the rest of the trail has been. Rocky. Rooty. Steep in places. Not so steep in others. I think we both took our fair share of stumbles.

looking back towards west peak from south horn — The sun trying to break through the clouds, looking back to West Peak

a wide angle view across the mountains from Bigelow south horn — View from South Horn

appalachian trail bigelow south horn sign nailed to a post — Bigelow Mountain South Horn

I saw a snake. Stopped just in time as it slithered across the trail. Dark with a yellow stripe?

I took very few photos of the descent because of the rocks, and we were just trying to get to the road as fast as possible. The 2 Twix bars I had eaten were wearing off and I was getting so hungry.

We had hardly seen any northbounders and then we saw a little bubble of them just before we got to the road; “Trail magic in the parking lot” the last one said.

some steps on the appalachian trail made from logs — A lovely bit of trail maintenance

cars parked on a dirt road — Parking lot trail magic

Brilliant! Also, good job he told us because the parking lot was the other side of the road and we were just going to hitch straight away. So we crossed the road and a southbounder called RJ was there too. There was a set up with chairs and fruit and they were cooking up sausage and egg and grilled cheese sandwiches. Perfect timing.

The girl - I don’t remember her name - hiked the AT last year and was out here giving back. A few more NOBOs came along and we established that the bubble was about 1-2 weeks back so we will be running into them soon (and more importantly for us we have to be careful with accommodation because some places will be full).

a flowery paper plate with scrambled egg and sausage on — Scrambled egg and sausage (which was followed by a grilled cheese)

2 hikers posing for a photo next to a car and a camp stove — Trail magic from an AT 2022 hiker

A yellow bus pulled up and said “anyone for the Maine roadhouse?”. That was us, that was where we were going to stay. But we found out they were fully booked so she dropped us into town anyway.

She suggested somewhere else we may be able to stay where we could camp. So we got our priorities straight, forgot about the accommodation and went straight to get food.

I had the most delicious Blackened Haddock Tacos and a chocolate milkshake. Honestly the chocolate milkshake was a step too far but I enjoyed it nonetheless.

I was determined to eat every last scrap of the food because it was so nice and it was $18! I felt a bit delirious towards the end!

Cal then phoned the Mountain View Motel and found out they rent cabins for $30. They have showers, a hang out area and little kitchen etc. It sounded perfect. He also said he couldn’t book us in because he was cleaning a toilet, but he had no other bookings so we should be ok.

We resupplied which was painful and expensive. I’ve bought a load of old rubbish that most likely won’t keep me sustained but there we go. It’s mostly sugar which I said I was going to try to cut back on but there really wasn’t much other choice. I didn’t want to eat any of it. Food is going to be a struggle this time around. Especially when Twix bars cost $2! But it was the only option so I had to drop £45 on food I didn’t want to eat.

outside the supermarket in Stratton maine — Resupply in Stratton

We then went to the laundromat as there was no laundry service at the Mountain View. There was a lady in there waiting for her washing to dry and I asked her if there was a place I could get changed. There wasn’t so she said she would stand guard at the door while I got undressed and put my fleece and a clean pair of undies on.

She then helped me further when I discovered that the cash I was carrying had gotten wet the day I climbed Katahdin, and had remained wet in my wallet so was now mouldy and gross, and now the coin machine wouldn’t accept the notes. She changed my mouldy $5 into coins.

I then asked her which was the best detergent to buy from the machine and she said she had detergent in her car we could use.

So I sat sweating in the hot laundry room in my fleece and underpants. Called my parents and waited for the wash and dry to finish with took about 45 minutes.

Cal and I got dressed either side of the big pillar in the room but I forgot one side was lines with windows so someone may have hot an eyeful of me as I contorted my clammy body into my fresh (now very tight) sports bra.

6 drying machines stacked in a laundromat in stratton maine — The laundromat

a laundry soap vending machine — So retro

Next Cal had to make a quick trip to the post office and I waited outside. When he came out I said loudly “now we need to find a ride” and this guy who was sitting in a car next to us said “hey you guys need a ride somewhere?”

Yes. Yes we do.

So he drove us the 2 miles up the road to the Mountain View Motel and Campground where we got a great cabin which should be $60 a night but they charge hikers a discount rate of $30 and it can sleep up to 4 people. Even with just 2 of us it was an absolute bargain for $15 each.

the inside of a communal living area at a camp site — The communal area

We were able to have showers and the lady on reception said she collects things people leave behind so the hikers can use them, so we had loads of body soap and shampoo. It’s at time like this that I’m so glad I have really short hair. It’s so easy.

Then the rest of the evening was hanging out in the common area.

We would have paid $40 each for a dorm bed at the other hostel so this really is a steal!

Appalachian Trail SOBO Day 12 – Real food in Stratton Maine

7th August 2023

Bigelow Col Campsite (180.4) - Route 27 / Stratton (188.4)

Daily miles: 8

Total miles: 193.7

Follow