Appalachian Trail SOBO Day 28 – Lonesome Lake work for stay


  • 23rd August 2023

  • Garfield Ridge Shelter (363.1) - Lonesome Lake Hut (376.2)

  • Daily miles: 13.1

  • Total miles: 383.1


I must stop going to sleep in my fleece. I wake up a sweaty mess and then get chilled really quickly. 

the outside of a wooden shelter on the appalachian trail

Garfield Ridge shelter

The people who get up first seem to always be the last to leave. This was the case this morning. I packed up and left without eating or drinking anything. I snacked as I went along the trail. Literally a few steps from leaving the campsite was a sweet sunrise. 

the sun rising behind the mountains

Sunrise

early light across the trees

Blue skies

a selfie in the morning light

Enjoying feeling the sun on my red shiny face!

The first challenge of the day was a steep climb up to Mt Garfield. It was so nice up there. It was 0.1 off trail which I wouldn’t normally do, but I’m glad I went up there. It was a spectacularly clear day and I was going to be so lucky for Franconia ridge. What a turn up given the weather of late. 

mist in the valleys between the mountains

Views from Mt Garfield

a famous ridge line on the appalachian trail called franconia ridge see from mt garfield

Franconia Ridge

low clouds in the valleys

Low coulds

a hiker jumping on a rock with a ridgeline in the background

Correcting the recent lack of jump photos

a hiker jumping for joy on mt garfield with a ridge line in the background and clear blue sky

Excited for Franconia Ridge

After a steep descent and then some little up and downs I had a fairly long ascent of Lafayette. I got out of the trees quickly and I kept turning round every 5 minutes to look at the views. 

In 2018 I camped on the top of Lafayette and got the most beautiful sunrise ever. I didn’t think I’d be able to recreate that night - nor did I want to - so I was happy with a nice clear day. 

Once at the top there were a lot of people there. A lot of people! I got chatting to a British lady who now lives in Canada who invited me to stay whenever I get to Canada. We chatted for quite a while. It was sunny but the wind was icy. 

tree covered mountains

The clearest day for a while

rocky ascent of a mountain

Ascending to Mt Lafayette

tree covered mountains

Turing around to look at the views every 5 minutes

rocky mountain top

The most stunning ridge walk

a hiker posing at the top of a mountain

On top of Mt Lafayette

I had cell service so I looked at the weather… the forecast is nice today and tomorrow then the rain is back. I was due to go into town and stay at the Notch Hostel tonight, but I decided to change plans last minute and contacted them to change my booking to tomorrow night and I would continue hiking today and tomorrow and then potentially take the day off on the really rainy day. 

I had also spoken to Cal and he’s heading to Lonesome Lake tonight because he met someone who works there and he had blagged a work for stay. I would try to get there and if no work for stay I would hike on another 2 miles to the shelter. 

The ridge was beautiful, as always. The only thing that spoiled it a little was all the people; it was like the M25. And a lot of day hikers who had no clue of hiking etiquette. I saw one family trampling all over the “do not walk in this area fragile alpine plants” bit. 

a mountain ridge line

Lucky to get the most perfect day

a mountain ridge line

Still lots of ups and downs on the ridge

a mountain ridge line

It looks like there are no people but there were a lot of people!

a mountain ridge line

I took too many photos

a mountain ridge line

It was hard to not stop every 2 minutes

mountain top with lots of people

Lots of people on the top of Little Haystack Mountain

small trees on the top of a mountain

The end of the ridge and the beginning of the descent

The ridge walk was nice. It was also super hot and I actually wore my sunglasses, which I have been carrying the whole time and have worn once in Monson. I was actually pleased to get back in the trees and out of the sun for a bit. 

The descent was brutal. I thought I would be able to make up some time here but it took me ages to get down. I filled up on water, the upcoming ridge is dry and people were telling me I needed 3 litres. People underestimate my powers of living with dehydration and I only need half a litre to get me over the 8 miles of hot and windy ridge!

Down down down. My knees were screaming. I don’t remember it being this painful 5 years ago. I got caught peeing for the first time. I was so desperate and I had to shout out “wait there I’m peeing!” 

Finally got to the bottom where it was hot and humid and buggy! I crossed under the I93 where I had originally planned to go into town and carried on for another 3 miles to Lonesome Lake hut. It was actually quite a nice walk to the hut with a nice grade to the incline, it was still rocky and rooty of course. 

a river flowing under a bridge

Going under the interstate

I got to the hut at 4pm. The guy with the dog from last night appeared at the junction. I left the shelter before him and i hadn’t seen him all day. He said he got lost. Weird. I sat inside for a second, then in walks Cal – he had done a side quest. He asked about work for stay and for me to and we both got it. 

the outside of lonesome lake hut

Lonesome Lake hut

a still lake with the reflection of trees and mountains in the water

Lonesome Lake with Franconia Ridge in the background

We hung out by the lake while all the paying guests had their dinner and then we were allowed to eat the leftovers with the crew. 

Mushroom soup. Lentil Dahl and rice. Flat breads. Peach pie and candy for dessert. I ate so much! It was just nice to have food that wasn’t out of my food bag. The crew chatted a lot and we found out a little more about working at the huts - honestly it sounds terrible! One of the girls had to go into the toilets and fish out a shoe some kid had dropped in there. How do you drop a shoe in the toilet?

It was 8:30pm by my the time we got our chores. Chores can be up to 2 hours but with bed time fast approaching we knew we would only be there for half an hour. Cal had to clean the fridge and I had to scrub the griddle. 

inside lonesome lake hut with a sleeping pad and sleeping bag set up on a bench

Sleeping on the benches inside the hut

We slid the benches together to sleep on and settled in for the night. The fridge is the loudest thing in the world so it’s another earplug night. 


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Appalachian Trail SOBO Day 29 – Up and over the Kinsmans

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Appalachian Trail SOBO Day 27 – That mental Australian