Appalachian Trail SOBO Day 31 – The end of the Whites


  • 26th August 2023

  • Kinsman Notch (389.6) - NH Route 25c (404)

  • Daily miles: 14.4

  • Total miles: 410.9


a shed filled with hiking gear

Inside the gear shed at the Notch Hostel

Another night in a bed has made me soft and I really didn’t want to leave civilisation and go hiking again! 

I got the 7am shuttle. Cal was aiming for the 11am shuttle to the same place as me, and Toe and Mayqueen were on the 7:20am shuttle to 16 miles behind us. 

When I got to Kinsman Notch there was trail magic there so stopped for a breakfast hotdog and didn’t end up hiking out until 8am.

hikers sat in camp chairs under a gazeebo

Trail magic at Kinsman Notch

a hotdog in a bun on a paper plate

Breakfast Hotdog

I struggled up Moosilauke, mostly because of my new shoes and – in a surprising change – not because it was a difficult climb. In fact it was considerably easier than I remember the descent being in 2018! But my shoes.

Firstly they felt weird, of course, they are new and different. Hoka Speedgoats definitely aren’t my shoe, but at the moment I have them due to lack of other options. The soles are way chunkier so I can’t feel the ground or rocks as much - not sure at the moment where this is a good thing or not. They are far too narrow, even though I got the wide fit, they just aren’t wide enough. The skin underneath the balls of my feet is squished and the edges of the shoe are pressuring the sides of my toe balls. The heel is also too spacious and my heel slips and moves around in there. The colours are pretty though! They got muddy straight away as I slipped off a rock into a patch of mud. 

hoka speedgoats

The new shoes didn’t stay clean for long

Here’s the thing. I’m hoping they will stretch a bit and get comfier, but today was a struggle. I had to re-lace them so that there was no lacing around the tight part and I could use more lace to try and secure the heel from slipping. I must have stopped to fiddle with my shoes about 5 times. 

The first part of the trail is steep. It climbs up next to a waterfall and I was picking my way over the wet rocks very carefully, feeling like Bambi on ice as I got used to the new feeling of the new shoes. 

I was only going 1 mile an hour but at least I was moving forwards! The trail mellows a lot and became quite nice to walk on as I ascended into the clouds. As I left tree line it was a bit windy but it didn’t feel cold at all, it was a nice ridge walk, visibility was about 30ft in front so just had to use my memory to picture the views. 

a bridge made of logs

Wooden log bridge

water cascading down rocks

Waking alongside a waterfall

wooden blocks in slab rock

These wooden blocks help you not slip and die

rocks covered in moss in the forest

Rocky forest trail

the appalachian trail covered in mist

Above tree line and into the mist

very low visibility on the top of a mountain

No views this morning

I got to the top and wanted to take a picture with the sign but there were 2 day hikers right next to it, eating their snacks, so I had to wait for them to move. Then it got cold up there in the wind so I layered up. Eventually they left and I was able to get a nice Flip Flopper to take my picture. 

a hiker stood with the sign at the top of mt Moosilauke

The top of Mt Moosilauke - the last peak of the White Mountains

I didn’t stay up there long after that because it was cold in the wind but as soon as I got back in tree line I was too warm, which is standard. I delayered and made the descent which was way more mellow than I remember the ascent being. It tried to rain, well it did rain a little, but I was sheltered by the canopy of trees and not much of it got through. 

It was a bit rocky to start with but it soon changed into forest path and the roots got less and the rocks got less and I could actually open up and walk properly. The mosquitoes however got worse. 

a trail guided by cairns through the mist

Cairns leading the way through the mist

a hiker smiling at the camera dressed in lots of layers

Smiling through the pain in my feet

a straight smooth path through pine trees

This was a great trail through the pine trees

There was about a half mile road walk where I met some nice NOBOs and had a chat with them for about 15 minutes. They told me if I could make it to the next road today there was trail magic set up there. 

I had to cross a creek and I took my shoes off for this one. I didn’t want to get them wet yet if I didn’t need to. So I crossed barefoot, it wasn’t deep or fast flowing, mid calf max, but no rocks to hop that I could see. I also wanted an excuse to take my shoes off and the water felt nice on my poor sore feet. 

a path through a field

Down to the fields

a brown sign with pictures of hikers and the appalachian trail with a white arrow

Trail goes this way

a road curving round to the left

A little road walk

a shallow river

A little river crossing

A couple of NOBOs came by and they managed to go upstream a bit and find somewhere to cross without taking their shoes off. I needed to take a break and filter water and eat some food but the mosquitoes were so bad I couldn’t stop. I filled my dirty bottle and just carried it without filtering, and I just went without food other than the snacks in my fanny pack which were mostly Starburst. 

The trail was nice in a lot of places, although quite muddy in some areas. A lot of the NOBOs I met today were complaining about all the mud. I was back on a 2 mile an hour pace and I even slightly ran the downhills. I thought about camping next to the pond but the mosquitoes were already bad, I imagined that would be mosquito hell round the pond so I kept going. 

I went over the summit of Mt Mist which is easily missed! And by then I was only a couple of miles from the road where the trail magic was. I got there about 5pm and the guy - Lyme Time - was a hiker from last year giving back to the trail. He said I was his only SOBO of the day and he was hoping for at least one so he was stoked. 

an orange sign nailed to a tree with "you almost missed mt mist" written on

You almost missed…

He didn’t have a lot of food left but that was ok because I am on the first day out from resupply and I had hardly eaten anything today. What he did have was soda and until now I haven’t had the desire for soda at all (apart from the Mountain Dew a couple of weeks ago) but the need has kicked in now and I downed a Fanta orange and got stuck into a second one. I was so thirsty because I still hadn’t wanted to stop and filter that water I had been carrying for 5 miles because there were too many bugs. 

a tarp set up next to a road with chairs and a table underneath

Trail magic from Lyme Time

We chatted and I had already kind of decided I would pitch my tent in a spot I had seen just before I came out on to the road, and a NOBO came by and I stayed and chatted some more. I stayed for about an hour and a half, before needing to go and get my tent set up. 

Once pitched, I ate my turkey wrap I had packed out for today, added a string cheese and Doritos to it. It was good but not worth the $7 I paid for it! I would have been just as well off packing out a packet of turkey and I would have paid $2 less. 

a big agnes copper spur set up in the forest

Solo camp

Anyway. It’s not cold at all tonight and I’ve actually taken off my hoody to sleep. Maybe I’ll get a good nights sleep tonight 


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Appalachian Trail SOBO Day 32 – Everyone loves a fire tower

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Appalachian Trail SOBO Day 30 –Zero at the Notch Hostel