Appalachian Trail SOBO – pre trail logistics
The trickiest things about going SOBO are 1. getting to the start, and 2. getting a permit for Baxter Park (something you don’t need for a NOBO hike). Also being a foreigner adds a layer of logistics on top. But it’s actually a lot easier than it first appears…
Visas
If you are coming from the UK (or other foreign countries) you will need a B1/B2 tourist visa. You have to visit the US embassy (or at least you had to pre-covid) and once you get your visa it’s valid for 10 years. This doesn’t mean you can stay in the States for a continuous 10 years, but each time you visit over that period you should be given a minimum of 6 months, but you can ask for longer at immigration and whether you get it of not will entirely depend on the mood of the US border guard that day.
I already had my visa which is why I was able to make such a last minute decision as to whether I was going to go or not.
Boston
I flew from London to Boston on Sunday 23rd of July, arrived on the morning of the 24th and stayed for 2 nights in the HI Boston Hostel – chosen because it was cheap and close to the bus station – which allowed me a day and a half in Boston to sort some things out.
Boston, a mix of the old and new
I had pre-orderd a bunch of stuff and had some of it delivered to the post office under General Delivery. My experience so far with General Delivery is that you just send it to the post office, you show your ID and pick it up. This works well in small trail towns, not so well in big cities like Boston!
It took about 3 hours for me to track my packages down but, as with a lot of things in life, as soon as I was able to talk to the right person it was sorted and I could relax! The moral of that story is: have packages sent to the place you are staying, not the post office!
My very messy bed!
The bed next to mine
The main thing I had to get was new shoes. I had been struggling to find anything that fit, either my feet have gotten wider or shoes have gotten narrower, actually I think it may be a combination of the 2.
When I found out the Altra Lone Peak came in a wide fit I decided to give them a go, having previously used standard Lone Peaks for a few years – not because I think they are the best shoe, but because I have yet to find anything better.
New shoes, new socks
Unfortunately the only pair available in my size were in this very impractical white colour, but whatever the colour of the shoe they will eventually be destroyed by the Appalachian Trail and binned, so it doesn’t really matter.
Many people question the use of trail running shoes over boots, and that is probably a whole blog post in itself, but basically they are a lot lighter and dry out quicker.
I haven’t mentioned it on this blog yet (because it’s been like a million years since I wrote anything!) but in 2022 I shaved all my hair off, greatest decision ever!
Not only did it feel very liberating and empowering, it also raised money for charity and the 30 inches of hair went to a The Little Princess Trust who make wigs for children with cancer. It is also so much easier to manage so I gave it a fresh buzz just before I left.
How do the influencers get good mirror selfies?! Also – I cut off all my hair again.
I walked and walked around Boston, 10 miles on the first day and 15 miles on the second, after doing all my chores it was mainly just mooching. The weather was typically unpredictable with the first day being disgustingly hot and humid and the second day thunder storms and heavy rain.
I ate nothing but pizza slices for 2 days because it was easy and convenient. As a bonus the pizza shop right next to the hostel gives out free pizza slices if you go in there just before they are about to close!
Pizza by the slice
Boston to Millinocket
Wednesday 26th July was a whole day of travel.
Stage 1: Boston to Bangor. I got the 10am Concord bus from Boston South Station (didn’t book in advance but did get my ticket the day before to be safe, and to make sure I know where it left from) which takes just over 4 hours.
Bag packed with 6 days of food, heavier than I would have liked it to be!
Stage 2: I had a 3 hours to kill in Bangor so I went to the supermarket and picked up some last minute resupply bits. It was so so hot, in the 90s F / 30s C, so I hid for a while in McDonalds where it was air-conditioned, there was free WiFi and icy beverages.
My favourite and you can’t get them in the UK
Stocking up on the essential Twixes
Stage 3: The next bus was from Bangor to Medway on the CYR bus which leaves at 5:30pm every day, this one is a much shorter journey, just over an hour.
Stage 4: Medway to Millinocket. I was picked up from the bus station which was pre-arranged as I was staying at the Appalachian Trail Hostel & Outfitters.
The hostel have 2 deals - a SOBO special which includes 1 night in the hostel, pick up from the bus station and a shuttle to Katahdin, and a super SOBO special which includes all of that plus an extra day and night and a gear shakedown. They also say they include breakfast but it’s not a delicious breakfast so I wouldn’t count on it.
I think the deal is a really good option, especially if you care coming from overseas and you don’t know anyone who can help you get to Baxter Park.
Baxter reservation
My biggest problem was that I didn’t have an overnight reservation for Katahdin Stream campground. They open their reservation system sometime in February and you have to be quick as they all get booked up very fast. This isn’t helpful when you only make the decision to go in June!
Katahdin is a big day. It’s 5.2 miles up to the top (which are bonus miles!), then of course another 5.2 miles back down to the campground, so most people stay at that campground the night after climbing Katahdin, and that’s the night you need the reservation for.
Before I booked my flight I spoke to the hostel who said they have 4 other SOBOs heading out on the same day as me and it’s possible they will have space on their reservation, so I decided to take the risk.
On the way back to the hostel we picked up some other hikers from the supermarket and the first 2 people I met were Lesley and Kevin from… Scotland!
Our first conversation went something like this: Hi I’m Lesley. Hi I’m Puff Puff, do you have a reservation for Baxter? Yes we have plenty of space do you want to share?
So that was that problem sorted before I had even arrived at the hostel.
At the end of July there are loads of people there, people who have just finished the trail, flip floppers and SOBOs, so you don’t need to worry about starting out alone, there are people everywhere!
There was just enough time to checkin, buy a few last minute items, like gas and ziplocks, and have a meal with my new friends before it was time for bed ready for the early start tomorrow.
